giant freshwater prawn pond macrobrachium rosenbergii shrimp farm

Freshwater shrimp are fantastic little animals that can be found in every shade other than purple and also are excellent for including that something additional to a container.

They vary in regards to strength, so while some are incredibly challenging to maintain, others require practically no treatment in any way. This short article will certainly cover numerous varieties of freshwater shrimp, screening packages, and usual diseases.

15 Popular Freshwater Shrimp Species

Right here are a few of our preferred freshwater fish tank shrimp that you must explore maintaining.

Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina)

  • Call: Neocaridina davidi.
  • Temperature level: 68-78 F.
  • Size: 1-1.5″.
  • pH: 6.5-7.5.
  • DH: 6-12.
  • GH: 7-18.
  • TDS: 200-500.
  • Treatment Level: ⅕.

Along with three different pattern types, neocaridina has been offered in a huge variety of colors—basically anything save purple. Strongly colored red shrimp, also known as “red cherries,” are among the most popular varieties and the easiest colored shrimp to care for.

They are excellent cleaners and will certainly eat everything you throw at them! Many of their diets consist of “biofilm,” an organic buildup that occurs on everything in a fish tank. Shrimp must be added to a cycled and fully developed container, which takes roughly 2-3 months, as it takes several months to create a fully grown biofilm.


One side is covered in many lighter hues, including many rilis of each shade of red, array, green, yellow, and light blue. Darker colors include black rose, blue desire, blue velour, carbon rili, delicious chocolate, Bloody Mary, and blue carbon rili on the other side.


A shrimp with high pigmentation is one distinct tint. A brownish shrimp with complex brownish transparent, white, and lotion red stripes is typically referred to as wild pigmentation.

Tank Mates

Cherry shrimp are compatible with any fish or shrimp that won’t consume them. They are often risk-free to fry and are not antagonistic in any way. There aren’t many fish that are completely “shrimplet risk-free,” and their young are rarely bigger than a few millimeters.

If you require information on what the hell is, eh, as well as TDS, are missing to the “Shrimp Test Kits” area.

Bake A dog a bone

Crystal Red as well as Black Shrimp

  • Call: Caridina cantonensis.
  • Temperature level: 65-76 F.
  • Size: 1-1.5″.
  • pH: 5.5-7.2.
  • GH: 0-4.
  • GH: 4-6.
  • TDS: 130-300.
  • Treatment Level: 3/5.

One of the most popular shrimp species for nano sized containers is the crystal red cherry shrimp. Since these shrimps are so delicate, a nano storage tank needs to hold at least 5 gallons of water to keep their standards stable. For these shrimps, changes in gH, kH, or TDS caused by dissipation can quickly be fatal.

This gives you plenty of time to grow it and set it up whatever you like, as they furthermore require a well-known, fully established biofilm to be present in the storage tank. Since these shrimp are more expensive, few people keep them in neighborhood storage tanks, but it is crucially possible to keep them with peaceful container buddies.

The main issue with community fish aquariums is that these shrimps typically cannot withstand significant water changes. Water changes of more than 10% or 20% can take them by surprise and also get rid of them. Additionally, nitrates are harmful to these shrimps at lower concentrations than fish, making it difficult to control nitrate levels when you can only change 10% of the water at a time.

fresh prawns

Tiger Shrimp

  • Call: Caridina cantonensis.
  • Temperature level: 65-76 F.
  • Size: 1-1.5″.
  • pH: 6.0-7.2.
  • GH: 1-6.
  • GH: 3-6.
  • TDS: 130-300.
  • Treatment Level: ⅗.

Shrimp with a transparent body and thin, upright red stripes are called tigers. In terms of robustness and ease of care, they are similar to crystal shrimp. Additionally, they need a well-known storage tank because they cannot withstand water changes of more than 10% or 20%.

Like many other shrimp, they mostly eat sediment and biofilm, yet they also appreciate shrimp pellets and also boiled vegetables. The shrimplets produced by Caridina are roughly the same size as those produced by Neocaridina.

Numerous color variations exist, most notably the OEBT, or Orange Eyed Blue Tiger, a substitute with a deep blue body, red stripes, and orange eyes (visualized over). Additionally, there are Blue Tigers, Super Tigers, Tangerine Tigers, Galaxy Tigers, Royal Blue OEBT, Orange Eyed Black Tigers, and Blue Tigers.

BKK, Wine Red, and also Blue Bolt Shrimp

  • Call: Caridina cantonensis.
  • Temperature level: 65-74F.
  • Dimension: 1-1.5″.
  • pH: 5.5-6.5.
  • GH: 0-2, 0 favored.
  • GH: 3-6.
  • TDS: 90-130.
  • Treatment Level: ⅘.

These shrimp are just wonderful and gorgeous. They are considered a sort of “holy grail” by shrimp keepers due to their difficulty in treatment and distinctive coloration. The Wine Red shrimp, a red variation of the Black King Kong, has the same patterns as its black counterpart.

The Wine Red and Black King Kong have either a white triangle on the bulge on their back or a candy-striped white “panda” pattern. They are also either vivid in the shade. In contrast to the Crystal shrimp, the candy-striped manner. Whiteheads are seen on crystal shrimp, whilst red and blackheads are present on BKK and Wine Reds.

The characteristics of heaven bolt shrimp are determined by their abundance and level of blue, rather than any specific pattern. Lower grades have white bodies with stippled blue heads, and as the quality rises, the amount of white decreases and heaven intensifies.

These can all be combined in a single storage tank without losing their hue. The kids will surely look like adults, and even if they are reproduced in different colors, they will still look like real adults. Since they can cost over $100 for a single shrimp, these shrimps are extremely pricey and are not frequently seen in neighborhood fish tanks.

Pinto Shrimp

  • Call: Caridina cantonensis.
  • Temperature level: 65-73 F.
  • Size: 1″.
  • pH: 5.5-6.5.
  • GH: 0-2.
  • GH: 3-6.
  • TDS: 90-130.
  • Treatment Level: ⅘.

Pinto shrimp have the characteristically dark Caridina shrimp pigmentation. They come in red and black varieties, feature white and red stripes, are triangular, and are placed according to the gab line. Fancy, Zebra, and Spotted Head are the three categories into which the patterns are divided.

Despite being difficult to care for, these have a charming appearance. Cloud, fishbone, skunk, detected head, and galaxy are a few of the more well-known fancy designs. Some pinto designs closely mimic real ones, while others give you the option to add your own pinto-specific stress.

These shrimps do not withstand significant water changes, like other sensitive Caridina. Additionally, these Caridina are among the most expensive ones available and do not always accurately replicate real. People keep these things in simple storage tanks so they can keep an eye on them and their progeny.

istockphoto 504126966 612x612 1
istockphoto 504126966 612×612 1

Amano Shrimp

  • Call: Caridina multidentata.
  • Temperature level: 60-84.
  • Dimension: 2-3″.
  • pH: 6.5-8.0.
  • GH: 2-7.
  • GH: 2-15.
  • TDS: 130-400.
  • Treatment Level: ⅕.

Amano shrimp are attractive shrimp that are also remarkably simple to care for. They must work in groups of at least three people because they are social animals. It is entertaining to see them all scuttling around together, inspecting the vegetation, swimming around, and also snatching food from a fish’s nose before swimming off to enjoy it apart from the others.

Some of the best algae eaters in existence are these shrimp. They will manage that awful hair algae better than any other shrimp. Their name comes from Takashi Amano, the creator of the greatest aquascape that has ever existed, who introduced them to the fish tank hobby.

Since the immature Amano shrimp must go through a briny or deep sea phase before undergoing transformation, at which point they can no longer survive in brackish water, many of them are wild caught. Although it is unknown what they eat when in their larval stage in salt water, phytoplankton and gold pearls have so far shown to be successful diets.

Bamboo Shrimp/Wood Shrimp

  • Call: Atyopsis moluccensis.
  • Temperature level: 68-82 F.
  • Size: 2-3″.
  • pH: 6.5-7.5.
  • GH: 2-7.
  • GH: 6-15.
  • TDS: 130-320.
  • Treatment Level: 2/5.

Lovely little shrimp called bamboo shrimp have amazing hiding abilities. Being filter feeders, shrimp, they like to stay on decorations that stay in the considerable circulation and open their followers.

The bamboo shrimp intermittently pass water through their mouths as they swing their tiny followers around in the water. The bamboo shrimp’s main food supply is small waterborne particles, which are captured by its specialized following.

As they have no opportunity of defense, this type of shrimp places a high importance on hiding places and cover. Fortunately, they work well in many community aquariums as long as there is good circulation and quiet residents.

They are treated to a degree of 25 because they are filter feeders. Filter feeders require some additional care because it might be challenging to ensure that they receive enough food.

Ghost Shrimp

  • Call: Palaemonetes paludosus.
  • Temperature level: 65-80 F.
  • Size: 2″.
  • pH: 7.0-7.8.
  • GH: 1-8.
  • GH: 3-15.
  • TDS: 200-500.
  • Treatment Level: ⅕.

The easiest shrimp to take care of are ghost shrimp. These shrimp, often known as glass shrimp, are frequently only $0.30 each and are used as feeders. They are highly resilient, and if they become adapted to drip like other shrimp, they ought to thrive.

Expect between 1/3 and 2/3 of the shrimp you select to perish because they are typically utilized as feeders. They remain in terrible situations that also contribute to passing. Despite this, these shrimp are by far the easiest to maintain of all the species.

Since they are too large to be consumed and benefit many local fish pools, they are frequently kept with bettas. They will frequently forage along the lowest point of the water column for any leftover food that fish may have missed, but they may also need to be supplemented with shrimp pellets so they can get enough nutritious protein.

Both a guy and a woman are required to replicate the shrimp. The shrimp will mate, and the female will unquestionably be seen carrying eggs in her swimmerets for three to four weeks. The eggs will eventually hatch into young larvae, which will certainly search for infusoria for a week before undergoing a change.

Indian Whisker Shrimp

  • Call: Macrobrachium lamarrei.
  • Temperature level: 65-80 F.
  • Size: 2-3″.
  • pH: 7.0-7.8.
  • GH: 1-8.
  • GH: 3-15.
  • TDS: 200-500.
  • Treatment Level: ⅕.

Similar to ghost shrimp in appearance, Indian Whisker Shrimp have a greater history of attacking fish like bettas. Ghost shrimp feature red bands on their claw arms, two light red dots on their tails, and maybe some red on their antennae. The extended claws of Indian Whisker shrimp will surely grow as they become older, and they don’t have a light blue tint.

Other than these subtle differences, both shrimp look alike and are sometimes sold as a single item. One more crucial distinction between the two species is that while juvenile ghost shrimp will thrive in freshwater, young Indian Whisker shrimp will not.

Vampire Shrimp

  • Call: Atya gabonensis.
  • Temperature level: 75-84 F.
  • Size: 3-6″.
  • pH: 6.5-7.5.
  • HK: 2-5.
  • GH: 6-15.
  • TDS: 120-350.
  • Treatment Level: 2/5.

Want a crayfish for a local fish tank. Do you, however, want all of your fish to perish? Despite its terrifying moniker, the vampire shrimp is a delightful alternative to huge crayfish. When you first encounter them, they appear to have thick bodies and resemble crayfish until you realize that their claws are actually followers.

They are a filter feeder, so harming your fish is not possible, but they do need a fish tank with put-on-hold pieces and also strong circulation. These normally reach dimensions of 3″ in the typical fish tank, while some assert that they may reach two times that size.

Despite their large size, these shrimps are somewhat anxious and will often spend a lot of time either hiding or interacting with others in an area with considerable traffic. A substantial design should be placed in regions with higher circulation so that shrimp can perch on top of them and acquire food.

Many of these are wild-caught, and they frequently have interesting characteristics. You will probably need to order them online unless your town has a distinctive fish shop. Because the larvae need brackish or seawater to expand, just like Amano shrimp, they are rarely reproduced in bonds. Adults, however, cannot tolerate high salinities.

The position of ⅖ trouble is just because of the reality that they are filter feeders and also unreliable.

istockphoto 1048022258 612x612 1
istockphoto 1048022258 612×612 1

Caridina Babaulti

  • Call: Caridina babulti.
  • Temperature level: 75-80.
  • Dimension: 1″.
  • pH: 6.5-7.5.
  • GH: 0-8.
  • GH: 4-18.
  • TDS: 130-300.
  • Treatment Level: ⅕.

The vertical zebra-red stripes that run the length of this type of Caridina’s body are what give it away. They are similar to cherry shrimp in that they come in a range of colors, primarily emerald green, red, and brownish hues.

These shrimp love to consume rotting plants, so a grown fish tank is their most feasible residence.

They’ll undoubtedly like extra servings of blanched vegetables. There isn’t much information available on these colorful and adorable little others because they are a more new addition to shrimp maintaining leisure activity.

They may be kept in communal aquariums with calm fish and neocaridina shrimp. They can, however, be easily intimidated and have a tendency to be reluctant. It is advised to keep these shrimp with neocaridina dwarf shrimp since it is possible for them to interbreed with other Caridina shrimp.

Taibee Shrimp

Table shrimp are hybrids of Tiger shrimp and Crystal shrimp or Taiwan Bee Shrimp and Tiger shrimp. Going across Taiwan Bee shrimp and tiger shrimp is done primarily to produce more potent Taiwan Bee shrimp or raise the population if you do not have enough Taiwan Bees.

For the second generation, table shrimp that are Tiger x Taiwan are typically crossed with another Taiwan Bee shrimp since this would surely produce even more Taiwan Bees. Furthermore, the genes from Tiger shrimp will make these Taiwan Bee shrimp harder.

A hybrid between a Tiger shrimp and a Crystal shrimp can produce “Fancy Tigers,” which are shrimp with the candy-striped and multicolored pattern of a Tiger shrimp but with the vivid, opaque pigmentation of Crystal Red or Crystal Black shrimp.

Taitibee Shrimp

An additional Taiwan Bee shrimp crossed the back of a Taitibee, which is essentially always a Tiger x Taiwan Bee. Due to the Tiger shrimp DNA, these are not true Taiwan Bees and cannot be marketed because further generations may develop in uneven coloration or patterning. One of the most well-known Taitibee Shrimp is the pinto shrimp.


Taiwan, the best way to start is with a mischling shrimp, albeit you’ll probably have to wait a very long time for them.

A Taiwan Bee shrimp and a Crystal Red or Crystal Black shrimp are crossed to create a mischling, which is typically done to increase strength.

Some people also find these with Golden Bee shrimp, but instead of the bright white, this results in beige and cream hue.

Although Crystal Red or Crystal Black shrimp appear simple to reproduce, doing so can result in the Taiwan Bee they were copied to.

Research the buyer before making a purchase of Mischlings; there have been issues with people passing off normal Crystal Reds and Blacks as Mischlings for a higher price.

Test Kits Needed For Shrimp

Shrimp are far more fragile than fish, necessitating special testing procedures in addition to the usual pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate tests. Shrimp are incredibly susceptible to ammonia and nitrite, so you can kiss them goodbye if there is even a small amount present. Nitrate levels must be kept at 10 or less and cannot exceed 20.

Shrimp also need to have their TDS, oh, and GH levels checked. A high kH indicates that you won’t be able to change your pH, while a low kit indicates that you can easily shift the pH. Carbonate firmness, or kH, is typically characterized as the water’s buffering ability and is closely related to pH.

The general solidity, or gH, scale measures a number of the water minerals, mainly the magnesium and calcium that shrimp need to molt and grow new shells. Total Dissolved Solids, or TDS, measures everything in the water but doesn’t tell you what it is.

Shrimp won’t be able to produce new covers in the presence of low GH and TDS, and they will certainly die. If the GH and TDS levels are too high, the shrimp will absolutely produce a surface that is too difficult to shed and will also undoubtedly perish. Typically, shrimp who die from molting issues have a clear or white ring behind their heads.

Common Illnesses

Below are a couple of typical ailments to look out for when maintaining shrimp.

Bacterial Infections

Poor water quality and/or its severity frequently lead to microbial illnesses in shrimp. It could be difficult to handle. Usually, contaminated dead shrimp die alongside orange- or red-headed shrimp. The same symptoms, as well as an interior that is milk-like white or opaque, can be seen in living shrimp.

Kanaplex, tetracycline, and/or oxytetracycline may all be used as therapeutic agents. These are all anti-bacterial medications that can treat illnesses caused by gram-negative microorganisms.

A 100% water change and reacclimating the shrimp to new water standards can help if the inadequate issues were caused by substratum transforming or other excess waste and build-up. Additionally, it can aid in oxygenating the water, which is essential for shrimp recovery. If you use an anti-bacterial, increase the oxygenation of the water because they can remove some of the oxygen.

Rust Disease

One of the most harmful shrimp diseases, red area or rust condition, can easily kill thousands of shrimp in a matter of months or weeks. It can be identified by regions that appear on the shrimp’s shell that are either black, red, or both red and black. The areas can appear to be typical pigmentation but vary in size, pigmentation, and structure.

This typically occurs as a result of poor water quality or other reasons for quarantining fresh shrimp. Treatment options include salt dips, Levamisole HCL, which is also used to treat callamanus worms, hydrogen peroxide and oregano oil, among others. Dips are a good place to start because shrimp are not very sensitive to salt dips.

Vorticella/Scutariellia Japonica

These bloodsuckers are quite small, and at first glance they can appear to be minute fuzzy fungus. Without a magnifying glass or anything similar, it is difficult to view them well, although they resemble tiny, elongated triangles attached to the shrimp’s flanks, stomach, and rostrum.

Application of PraziPro at 3/4 dose frequently removes them, just as a salt soak unquestionably will. The good news about them is that they are incredibly easy to heal and also have a low fatality rate. To prevent reinfection, you must remove any molted coverings off the shrimp because they may still be present on the surfaces.


Unfortunately, this shrimp issue is quite new and also is quickly getting worse. When you notice what appears to be an eco-friendly fungus on the underside of your shrimp, your entire swarm is most likely polluted.

This bloodsucker has so far seemed to have an effect on neocaridina. Divert all “healthy and balanced” shrimp to another storage tank and dry the previous container after separating any type of shrimp revealing the environmentally favorable “fungi” to one container. You must restart the container and repeat the cycle.

Some people have had success killing the bloodsucker using salt dips, while others have had success killing it with meals laced with Kordon Rid Ich. Malachite Green and Formalin are both present in Kordon Rid Ich, and the combination of these two offers the best success rate for treatment.


In contrast to being a disease in and of itself, hydra often occurs in fish tanks. If you keep shrimp or fries, it is only an issue.

In order to collect moving infusoria and particles, hydra attach the base of their bodies to an area of the storage tank with high circulation. They really like copepods, so if your copepods suddenly start to disappear, that could be a very early sign that you have hydra.

Hydra are able to move together with the glass and also substrate by one inch. They are harming adult shrimp, which are able to get rid of them as well as get rid of and eat shrimplings. The easiest way to stop them is to dose the container with the snail-safe medication fenbendazole, which is safe for shrimp.

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